Hidden upstairs from the rhythm of the street below, Hoo Haa’s a welcome change from its Windsor neighbours, one of those rare restaurants which caters to a multitude of different dining and drinking moods without alienating everyone in the process.
Inside is quiet and elegant, with a long bar and silver service for those that believe in obeying the laws of dinner according to Emily Post, and alcoves with intimate booths for the OKCupid journeymen. The deck out back is more of a casual affair, catering to the after-work set with two for one specials into the early evening. The cocktails certainly show the hand of a master mixer, and the more budget-conscious could do worse than come here for the sole purpose of knocking back a few before happy hour’s over than seven. Those who fancy a meal would do well to explore the more esoteric options on the wine list – the En Passant tempranillo is an inspired choice to match the restaurant’s Mediterranean specialties.
The menu itself, mostly a tribute to Italian excess, is another reflection of Hoo Haa’s catchall approach. For the refined, enough choice in cured meats and roast vegetables to induce an unthinking credit card overdraft. For the indifferent, the humble chicken parmigiana beckons like a faithful lover. Anyone wanting to do the chef’s labours true justice, however, should begin by ordering extensively off the appetisers. Seasoned oysters? Crumbed olives stuffed with chevre? Mushroom and gorgonzola arancini? Not a bad selection for under 10 dollars, if you don’t mind temporarily impairing your libido – people say that they’re aphrodisiacs, but I couldn’t help but notice my more racy daydreams for the next few days were exclusively about cheese and oysters.
The more intemperate diners run the risk of getting bogged down in the starters and finishing their night early with an acute case of the cheese sweats, but it’s well worth overcoming the temptation and having a crack at the mains, replete with a decent selection of gluten free and vegetarian options, and all around the 25 dollar mark. The lamb shoulder, one of the more hearty dishes, is slow cooked to perfection, although you’ll need to be at least mildly receptive to polenta to make the investment worthwhile. On the other end of the spectrum, the ricotta and pumpkin gnocchi is a worthy lighter option for anyone looking to work their way through something delicate and subtle.
The service is conscientious and friendly without being intrusive, a relief to anyone who prefers genuine warmth to the boring pageantry of hospitality on display down the street. Owing to the bar’s approach, there’s always an eclectic mix around the place with very different plans for the evening ahead, but even at its busiest the other patrons never seem invasive and the noise never rises above a gentle background din. Anyone looking for a bit of civility in a part of town not always known for its good manners will find a decent place to drop in at any time of the night.
BY SEAN SANDY DEVOTIONAL
