It just so happened that I was the hungry reviewer turning toward The Fox last week. The bar itself is incredibly welcoming, offering a brilliant selection of beers – microbrews and classics – and some great wines recommended to match your meal. The staff are completely hospitable, casual and, even on your first visit, make you feel like a local. Although the weather hasn’t been a complete pain in the arse lately, I still grimace when my mates pick an outdoor courtyard for a sit-down affair, but The Fox’s upstairs balcony is comfortably heated with a spectacular skyline vista and a great place to take your meal. There’s your usual acoustic accompaniment from a well-groomed bearded hipster and, if you’re feeling like snuggling up in a corner, there’s a stack of board games in a quiet nook next to the main bar (actually I’ve never seen anyone play these in a decent pub, but they add to the homely atmosphere).
Even though I’m in my mid-20s I’m pretty sure I’m half-deaf and a complete nanna when it comes to dining room noise pollution. The Fox has perfected the balance of atmosphere and sound, creating a space where you don’t need to shout over your pub meal but you’re still feeling in the thick of it. You feel like you’re in the main pub itself when you’re having your meal, rather than a separate dedicated dining zone, without suffering too much din from thirsty punters in the main bar.
I usually like to try something gnarly from the specials board when it comes to pubs, but The Fox has got an outrageously tempting Morton Bay bug pie as a regular main, while my dinner buddy chooses roast pork belly with mash, bok choy and a sage and burnt butter sauce. There are some satisfying sighs from those eating around us; a group of young women, some middle-aged couples, and a family all seem to be having a marvelous time.
The service is quick and the meals look generous and fresh. The bugs are rich and filling, almost overwhelming coupled with the thick pie pastry, but completely satisfying. It’s nice to see a seafood dish that doesn’t scrimp; I couldn’t have even looked at another crustacean after that dish, so no complaints on the portion size. My partner explains his fear of bugs after assuming that they have all been polluted since he let his dog poo near Balmain Bay in Sydney. Not to worry, these bugs are bottom dwellers from Morton Bay and they bury themselves deep in the sand like underwater moles. They are delicious.
The pork belly is both moist and crispy where it counts and is another rich success. The bok choy is slightly soggy but is cleansing against the richness of the dish. The pork also comes with small salty explosions of seared scallops wrapped in prosciutto, which are pleasant but a little middle-of-the-road in terms of texture.
There are also plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, a stand-out being the baked eggplant with approximately one million yummy additions like tahini, caramelised beetroot, haloumi and red cabbage as well as the vegetarian burrito.
You’re going to have the make a few trips to Wellington Street for a feed. The Fox has got plenty of tasty flavours up its sleeve and, combined with an open and relaxed atmosphere, you won’t regret giving it a go.
