Everyone must try the Ghost in Silk cocktail. Words fail us.
Northcote’s beloved daytime darling Ophelia has undergone a stunning metamorphosis, emerging as one of northside’s more compelling evening hotspots.
What began as an Instagram-worthy brunch spot has evolved into a sophisticated aperitivo bar that seamlessly bridges European elegance with Australian warmth.
The transformation is immediately apparent upon entering. Gone is the bright, caffeine-fueled energy of daylight hours, replaced by intimate lighting that bathes the space in golden hues. Vinyl spins softly – but not too softly – from an impressive curated collection. Our night was a lively trip hop blend, but every weekend sees more of Melbourne’s standout DJs (we’re talking names like Mothafunk, Frizzy McGuire et al) take over.
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It all creates an atmosphere that feels both cosmopolitan and refreshingly unpretentious. The venue’s signature booths, which could have been filled with laptop-wielding freelancers, now host intimate conversations over carefully crafted cocktails. Our particular evening began with A Willow Weeps, Ophelia’s ‘welcome drink’ – a tantalising proposition – that showcases their cocktail program’s sophisticated approach. The combination of Antagonist Market Gin, Saison Rhubarb Vermouth, toasted pine nut orgeat, Suze Gentian, fresh lime and instafoam creates a complex, herbaceous cocktail that perfectly encapsulates the venue’s refined yet playful philosophy. It’s the kind of drink that demands contemplation between sips.
Then there’s the aforementioned, delicate, subtle and totally awe-inspiring Ghost in Silk. A house milk punch with orange oleo sacrum, basil, coconut and yuzushu that unlike most yuzu-cocktails, doesn’t overdo the yuzu. Worth a visit alone.
The wine selection demonstrates impressive curation, we started with the 2023 Mac Forbes Pinot Noir from Yarra Valley. This elegant drop showcases bright cherry notes with subtle earthiness, perfectly complementing the evening’s Mediterranean-inspired menu. Likewise, 2023 Chalmers Pecorino from Heathcote provided an excellent pairing to our mains, offering crisp minerality and citrus notes that cut beautifully through richer dishes.
Ophelia’s food program has evolved significantly. The house-baked focaccia with roast tomato butter demonstrates their commitment to quality fundamentals – the bread arrives warm with a perfect crust-to-crumb ratio, while the butter carries intense tomato flavour without overwhelming richness. The cheddar biscuit with parmesan custard and celery represents sophisticated bar snacking.
The pasta program deserves particular praise. The mafaldine with pork ragù bianco and pangrattato showcases technical excellence, with tentacle-esque pasta perfectly coated in the rich, wine-braised pork sauce, finished with crunchy breadcrumbs for textural contrast.
Most impressive was the pickled mussels toast with aioli and aleppo pepper. Everyone does mussel toast, everyone forgets the acid – the most crucial aspect after the freshness of the mussels themselves. This seemingly simple dish demonstrates Ophelia’s ability to elevate humble ingredients through careful technique. The mussels retain their briny sweetness while gaining the absolutely-perfect amount of acidic brightness from pickling. Then, the aioli provides richness without heaviness and the aleppo pepper adds a bit of kick.
Service throughout the evening was attentive without being intrusive, with staff demonstrating genuine knowledge about both food and wine offerings. The venue’s transformation from daytime cafe to evening destination feels natural rather than forced, suggesting careful consideration of what gentrified Westgarth most desires.
Whether you’re seeking sophisticated cocktails, exceptional pasta or simply a warm refuge from Melbourne’s winter chill, this charming venue delivers on all fronts. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to become a regular.
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