Any true Anthony Bourdain fan knows the best dishes tell a story.
Of course, they still have to be delicious, with the right combination of texture, flavour and richness. But the ability to draw from one’s culture and personal experience and then be bold enough to elevate, reinvent and play with traditions – that’s a skill reserved for only the best.
I can happily report it’s a skill Lah Bros owner and chef, Rajeev Chakradhar has in spades. Drawing from his Nepali heritage (his grandfather was a restauranteur in Kathmandu), Chakradhar crafts thoroughly well-considered dishes that are creative, meaningful and an absolute joy to eat.
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Nestled on the Windsor end of Chapel Street, the venue has an unassuming charm, decorated with subtle odes to Nepal. The menu features a wide range of eclectic options, but come on, a tasting set under $100? That’s already outrageously good, and even more so when you see how much it includes.
I’m a strong believer that you can judge a restaurant solely on the basis of its bread. At Lah Bros, a crispy balloon of flatbread, golden-fried in ghee and served alongside a smokey-spicey dip (chef’s mom’s recipe) kicks off the proceedings in perfect form.
The next dish is perhaps one of the most eclectic: cured yellowfin tuna, but unlike you’ve ever had before, accompanied by grapefruit, peanuts, yogurt, curry and a betel leaf, which you use to fold the whole thing up like a taco.
Surprisingly astringent, this two-bite wonder is the first (but not the last) “wow” moment of the meal, the bitter tang stimulating the appetite for what’s to come.
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Next up is the customary momo, the most well-known Nepalese dish among Australian diners. Lah Bros may be on a mission to prove that Nepalese food is so much more than just momos, however, they still do the classic justice with a chewy casing and tender nutty pork filling suitable for less adventurous eaters.
The curries are mercifully portioned into manageable sizes. Fall-off-the-bone goat (bone included) and crisp yet melty slabs of pork belly, along with their spiced gravy and a side of sweet golden beets– utterly delicious.
There’s a lot of love in the desserts. Take the chiya tea brûlée for example, inspired by the tea and cookies the server graciously tells us are enjoyed daily in Nepal. Not only is it zingy and comforting, but it also has that satisfying crusted-sugar crack we always look for.
But no matter how good it is, it’s hard to beat the cheesecake. Don’t be fooled by it’s standard appearance. This is not your average cheesecake. It’s made vibrant with the flavours of kheer, a traditional rice pudding. Creaming yet light, singing with sweet notes of cardamom and rose water, it’s surprising yet elegant and impossible to forget.
Lah Bros delivers more than just a good feed. With spirit, spice and everything nice, their menu is made to introduce Aussie foodies to the sheer delight that is Nepalese cuisine.
To book a table at Lah Bros, head here.
