Food In Focus: Ferdydurke
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Food In Focus: Ferdydurke

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This novel explored the problems of immaturity and youth, the creation of identity in interactions with others, and dealt with ironic, critical examination of class roles in society and culture. It was also deemed scandalous and subversive by Nazis, Stalinists, and the Polish Communist regime and was officially banned in Poland for decades. The third member, alphabetically speaking, of the Office of Public Works family (The Belleville, The B.east and Section 8) is Ferdydurke, lurking above Section 8. The entrance is inconspicuous; it’s a side door fronting Tastersalls Lane. You will then climb two flights of stares – not a typo but a reference to the collage of many faces coating the walls – to reach the bar, which stocks an excellent local beer selection, some Polish beers and an experimental cocktail list with well-versed bar staff. In typical Office of Public Works style, the food menu, with was re-launched and redesigned in February this year, is an interesting and highly diverse mix of international cuisines. Hot dogs are still on the menu, but they’ve taken a bit of a back seat. Now, it’s mainly a combination of Eastern European and American (during the Cold War we’d imagine this would’ve be quite controversial) but they pull it off, like they do with everything else, effortlessly. Piroshki’s are a staple; they’re like baked dumplings filled with stuff like roast mushrooms, caramelised onion and rice; or Hungarian lamb, tomato and charred peppers. The deli dogs, served in long brioche buns, is where the US comes in with the Charles Bronson (the single most American actor we can think of), which is made up of caramelised onion in Kelly Brothers’ cider, pickled gherkins and cheese. All their deli counter sandwiches are $12 and are different every day of the week, with gluten-free options also available. International DJs make regular appearances, in the past they’ve had Seven Davis Jr., Even Tuell, Space Dimension Controller, Mo Kolours, DJ Maseo (De La Soul), John Moralles, Dynamo Dreesen. 

EDITOR’S PICK

The Little Lebowskis are simple but ridiculously good. The perfect match with a cold beer.    

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