It’s a bit of a change of pace from his family-operated and acclaimed Dandenong Pavilion. Spearheading the gentrification of the area, Dandenong Pavilion has for eight years and until recently focused more on pizza and pasta.
“The thing about food service is that it’s always started and ended in Europe,” he says. On a recent trip to the US however, Zeini visited some of the country’s most famed burger places and he had an epiphany: “We had to do burgers.”
For about six months, Zeini and design guru Josh Lefers (Big Dog Creative) set to work planning and testing. By cleverly implementing a secret burger menu at the Pavilion, they were able to perfect their recipes and sneak the word out there. It well and truly worked, because Epicure awarded the McDowell, their homage to the Big Mac, (two premium Aussie beef patties, double American cheddar cheese, double Swiss cheese, lettuce and McDowell sauce on a lightly toasted bun) Melbourne’s Best New Burger earlier this year.
With a preview night that happened the Friday prior to opening on Tuesday, Zeini has been overwhelmed by the hype.
“We haven’t even had our media launch yet,” Zeini says. “It’s all been about social media.”
Perched above the corner of Exhibition and Bourke St, a rather mystical set of blue-lit stairs – aptly referred to as ‘the waterfall’ – lead you up to the second floor, in which the room opens up to an American-style, well, trailer park. Several of them in fact act as booths, available to book for anywhere between eight and 15 people, coupled with typical diner-style furniture like Lino-covered chairs. The tables are laden with cutlery, condiments, serviettes and, very appropriately, wet wipes. The menu is epic, and one who has trouble making decisions may find it a bit overwhelming. Really stuck? Ask the well-informed and super friendly staff for recommendation.
Our pick is the Atomic and trust us, it lives up to its name. A premium Aussie beef pattie, American cheddar cheese, chili cheese kransky (yes, there’s sausage in this thing too), crispy bacon, BBQ sauce and truffle cayenne mayonnaise on a lightly toasted Brioche bun. It’s deadly, but for all the right reasons. Zeini sources their bacon from the States because the cut is different. Instead of the Australian short cut bacon, American bacon is cut from the belly. This cut means it crisps up an absolute treat.
Feeling thirsty? There are plenty of options, including a good collection of American beers, cocktails, and a few wines, but we went with the Marker’s Mark Bourbon, salted caramel and maple bacon milkshake, garnished of course with a slice of bacon jerky. Zeini says there’s plenty more of the world’s most versatile meat to come.
“We’re working on a bacon butter,” he reveals with a grin.
We may need to lie down.
BY TRACY TURDUCKEN
